José el Bloggo!

Friday

Had a quick coffee late afternoon with Odile & Myriam at the Gymnase (Odile’s favorite hangout when she was a " lycéenne") - there were 5 teens at the next table smoking up a storm (some things don’t change in Paris).

The evening started with an attempt to get tickets to l’Entrepot where we ran into, Jacques, Hélios & Regina and then Renata - we all arrived around 9:30, but it was already too late - SOLD OUT!. We luckily got the idea to hang around the entrance (where there is a glass wall that opens onto the main stage - and strangely enough we weren’t chased off) so we stood and enjoyed the first set of Cheikha Rimitti an imposing 83 year-old, sort of female Elvis of raï. And there was a fab belly-dancer to boot (I await the pics taken by Hélios - to post soon).

Afterwards we headed over to a nearby Portuguese bar/resto, Os Minhotos, for some vinho verde and mucho palaver. We went our separate ways around midnight.

Since Odile and I hadn’t really eaten anything all day we went to our "surefire" restaurant (at least when it’s late at night in the staid/calm 14th), Le Mauritius. Dany said he’d sent the cook home, but then agreed to make us dinner himself. We called Florence, who came over around 1am. We met Dany’s friends: Jacky (just back from 17 years in Thailand) and Robert (who looks a bit like Bill Murray and had, indeed, recently been in Japan). We turned in early (around 2am) since tomorrow is a big day (Nuit Blanche).

Tuesday

A late lunch with Barbara & Bruce, who return to San Francisco early tomorrow, and Theo, a new friend, who is also, by chance, from SF. Sadly B&B will probably not be back before next year in the late spring, but Theo makes it back regularly.

What can I say but "Bye ya kids, bye ya, bye ya" … we’ll miss our outings (of course, we’ll try to keep things going here and expect you all will do the same on the west coast). Anyway, it won’t be long before you’re back and we’re all "plunking our magic twangers"!

Sunday

We finally had both William (mi compay de Puerto Rico - by way of NYC) and Marcel (Myriam’s upstairs neighbor) over for dinner. Myriam joined us to make a nice fivesome. We had Odile’s interpretation (superior to mine, finally) of "Skate with capers" - superb. And William, as usual, terribly generous and well-intentioned brought us gifts galore (gracias por: el vino, el ajo picao, Crest Y Morning Thunder - I now have enough tea, thanks to all you good friends that I can open a store - not that I’m complaining). We look forward to our next time together!

Saturday

Off to Antoine’s going-away (to San Francisco) party with Domi & Jacques. On our way there we walked by the oldest house in Paris (built in 1407) - the home of the ever mysterious Nicolas Flamel.

Joined at the Taxi Jaune (rue Chapon - which itself dates back to 1292) by Bruce & Barbara; plenty of folks including Pierre & Brigitte up from Montigny.

We all enjoyed the varied wines and the buffet (thanks to the TJ team of: Laure, Thomas and Otis) and I especially liked the paintings by Sylvie Herzog.

Friday

Excellent and fun dinner à quatre (merci beaucoup, Barbara) at La Perla (my first time) on rue Montorgueil - I can vouch, and even highly recommend, the grilled calmari and the octopus salad. The main dishes are very good and more than generous, which led to our asking for a doggy bag and was followed by the Italian waiter’s "occhiaccio della morte" (scowl of death).

Afterwards a nightcap (or two) right next door at the Jet Lag bar - überkitch but amusing with fairly good (canned) music.

Thursday

Finally got over to visit Figaro’s new bar (formerly at chez Angèle - closed 2003) called "Mon chien Stupide" after John Fante’s book. Nice bar in the 20th arrondissement - excellent wine choices, good ham/cheese platter (Saïd cuts it paper-thin, like it should be), laid-back ambiance, good music and friendly clients (salut, Delphine & Sébastian and Basil le grand). We drove back with Denis around 1:30 (1/2 hour before closing time). If you’re in town this Sunday 25/09  they’re having a mega-party/concert at la Bellevilloise nearby (see details here).

Wednesday

Heading over to L’Arbre à Lettres for a book-signing by a friend of Florence. Then we’re off to dinner at Myriam’s with Bruce, Barb and Antoine (who’s coming up from Montigny). The lucky guy will be moving to San Francisco in the near future and we wanted to get the 3 Amerloc together here!

Educational pearl of the day: For those looking to improve their French slang here’s a good link of "alternative" terms.

UPDATE: The book is entitled "Du nitrate dans le cassoulet" by Jacques Bullot.

Tuesday

The annual 14th arrondissement art show includes, as for the past years, a painting by Myriam. The show continues until September 25 so stop by if you get the chance … we’re going tonight for the vernissage (and the free drinks, naturally).

Three of the best jazz clubs on the rue des Lombard are doing a special promotional deal of "12 sets, 12 bands" - free entry to the clubs, tonight only and after 9pm! We’ll be there (hopefully about 8 strong) to groove to the music!

UPDATE: Zeroed in on Myriam’s painting (one of 300 artists!) but the vernissage was SO crowed we decided to blow off the mayor’s "pot de l’amitié" and ended up at la Comedia with the usual suspects. Were joined by Gérard (far right) who invited us to his vernissage November 8 at Galerie Figure.

Afterwards drove up to rue des Lombard, where we were joined by B&B, but again SO many people we blew off the free concerts and walked over to the Pick Clops in the Marais (I overdid it with a street hot dog, New York-style, yum, on the way over and a bagel, loxs and cream cheese chaser in the bar … not counting the peanuts).
Took the 1:30am night bus home just to check out the new Noctilien service being inaugurated starting tonight. Good news: seems better, faster and cheaper …bad news: I’ll probably be out more often for late nights!

Sunday

Finally didn’t make it in time to ride the old-style Métro (Denis did - he said was was super crowed but worth it. The old Sprague-Thomson from the 1930’s) - tant pis, will try again next year!

To sort of make up for that lost opportunity we all headed over to Théâtre de Verre for their usual Sunday Latin American music/Argentine steaks evening. Odile, me with Alain and Denis were jooined by Bruce & Barbara … we had a HOOT, as usual.

Not knowing when we’d had enough we métroed up to the 18th for a snoot at chez Camille then le coup de grâce at Denis’ hilltop duplex with the view to kill for. Tofu and wine for all … plus the hourly twinkle-magic of the Eiffel Tower. We called it a night around 3am (ay, ay, ay).

Monday

Especially on days like today, tons of sunshine, cool (but not cold) temps, and everyone out and about in good spirits (or is it just me) it is such a pleasure to stroll as we did this afternoon from the 14th up to midtown. I think most big cities (or even smaller towns) lend themselves to one becoming a first-rate flâneur; if you haven’t been out strolling this week (forgot the job!) just what are you waiting for? (Let me know what you see/do via "Comments" below or e-mails).

We ended up at seeing friends (merci les amis pour les DVDs!) at one of my favorite strolling streets, rue Tiquetonne, then afterwards coming upon the way too charming Passage du Grand Cerf nearby (take a look at the panoramic view of photo 3 on the previous link). Midway into the passage is an office for an outfit called "Crazy Baby" - you can’t actually see who or what’s doing inside but the name gave me a kick!